A tram winds through Alfama.
The first thing I organize for my friends who are visiting is a walking tour of the city. Usually I start in Santa Apolonia by the river and then Alfama, Mouraria, and all the old parts of Lisbon, and then Bairro Alto and Chiado. It’s a long day of walking. Walking up and down. It's seven hills!
There isn’t one neighborhood I like especially. All the old parts of Lisbon are nice. They're very similar. But it’s changing. Many of the old people…well, you know, they’re going. Youngsters are taking over, so it's becoming a more bohemian place. Plus, there are a lot of foreigners coming. It's a good vibe. It’s a very rich mix of people, and there are lots of associations of young people trying to make a difference.
Tasty, garlicky pork, waiting to be made into a bifana.
I usually have a snack with me on my tour. Or I stop at a traditional restaurant and have my traditional steak with fries and an egg. It’s called bitoque. The sandwiches are also good. Bifana is pork meat and prego is steak. They are really good. I would say garlic is one of our biggest assets in the kitchen.
Then if you have the opportunity, take the ferry to Cacilhas, especially at sunset. It's beautiful to see Lisbon at night. You take the ferry from Cais do Sodre, and then you go to the other side of the river. There isn't much to see there. It’s not even really a very nice place to be. But the views are great. Just go have a beer and relax and see the views.
In terms of food and sightseeing, Lisbon has great places. There's a lot of live music for free and low cost. The jazz school here in Lisbon is called Hot Club. It might be free still. It's a bar, and when they have invited bands, you pay 5 to 10 euros, but when it's students it's free and they just jam all night.
What makes Lisbon special?
I think it's the light. If it's a beautiful sunny day and you sit somewhere where you can see the castle… Lisbon has a very good energy because of the light. I I lived abroad for a year and when I came back I spent so much time walking around just looking up at the light.
Lisbon at dusk, from across the river in Cacilhas.